Trip Details

Climbing Difficulty and Grade- 5.6(YDS grade) or a British V.S or a South African 16

Best Time of Year- December-March

Distance to the Summit– 39kms

Longest Trekking day- 6-7hours

Climbing time for the ascent of Nelion- 4-6hours, extra time to Batian - 4hours

Descent time- 5-7 hrs

Altitude at the Start of the trek- 2700m, 8,860ft

Altitude at the Summit- 5,199m, 17,057ft Summit- Batian

The Trek Up
The route you choose up to the Austrian Hut where you would start your climb is totally up to you as there is little difference in duration.
-The trek up the Chogoria route followed by the technical climb and descent via the Naro Moru route would be about 7 days.
-The trek up the Timau route with one day to climb the peaks followed by the descent off the Naro Moru route can be done in 6 days.

Both routes are very scenic, and offer a good acclimatization profile.

How to Prepare for Climbing Nelion and Batian

Climbing Nelion and Batian involves mostly class III scrambling terrain along with some harder pitches, which all in all are fairly straightforward. However, the ascent can be physically and mentally demanding due to the long duration and high altitude.

Preparation Tips:

• Physical Conditioning: Engage in a combination of trekking, climbing, and cardiovascular exercises. This will build endurance and help your body adapt to the exertion and altitude.

• Altitude Acclimatization: Spend time at higher elevations prior to the climb to reduce the risk of altitude sickness.

• Technical Skills: Practice scrambling and climbing on similar terrain to gain confidence and improve technique.

• Gear Familiarity: Use the gear you plan to take on the climb during training to ensure comfort and efficiency.

For detailed guidance and support tailored to your experience and fitness level, get in touch with us. We will provide the right information and advice to help you prepare effectively for this remarkable climb.

More about the Climb

The usual way to climb Nelion is from the south side of Mount Kenya, starting at Austrian Hut. You begin early, crossing the boulder field near Lewis Glacier with head torches, then scramble up loose rocks to the base of the climb. Usually, you finish the first two pitches before sunrise. When the sun rises and your muscles warm up, climbing gets easier. Along the way, you'll pass spots like “One O’clock Gully,” “The Amphitheatre,” and “De Graaf’s Variation,” offering both easy and harder climbing. “Baillie’s Bivvy,” an old hut, marks the halfway point. Reaching Nelion’s summit usually takes 6-8 hours.

Howell Hut, on Nelion’s summit, can be used for overnight stay if you want to cross to Batian. The crossing, called the “Gate of the Mists,” means dropping about 35m from Nelion and climbing 70m to Batian’s top. This crossing and return takes about 3-4 hours but depends on ice conditions in the Gate. Staying overnight at Howell’s hut and descending the next morning is an option, but if you are quick, climbing and descending in one day works best. Your guide will help decide what’s best before and during the climb.