Trip Details

Climbing Difficulty and Grade- USA 5.6, British V.S, South African grade 16

Distance to the summit – 39 km’s
Longest trekking time- 6-7 hours
Total climbing time- 8-10 hours
Estimated time to descend off Batian- 6-8 hours
Altitude at the start- 2700 m, 8,860 ft
Altitude at the summit- 5,199 m, 17,057 ft (summit of Batian)

The Trek Up
The treks we recommend all have good acclimatization profiles, but each has different scenery, and slight differences in duration. The route you choose to trek up to the Kami Base Camp is totally up to you. We are happy to provide advice in order to help you choose the trek which suits your preferences.

  • The Chogoria route trek followed by the technical climb and descent down the Naro Moru route takes about 7 days.

  • The trek up the Timau route with one day to climb the peaks followed by the descent via the Naro Moru route can be done in 6 days.

How to Prepare for Climbing Nelion and Batian

Climbing the North Face route to Batian involves mostly class III scrambling terrain along with some harder pitches, which all in all are fairly straightforward. However, the ascent can be physically and mentally demanding due to the long duration and high altitude.

Preparation Tips:

  • Physical Conditioning: Engage in a combination of trekking, climbing, and cardiovascular exercises. This will build endurance and help your body adapt to the exertion and altitude.

  • Altitude Acclimatization: Spend time at higher elevations prior to the climb to reduce the risk of altitude sickness.

  • Technical Skills: Practice scrambling and climbing on similar terrain to gain confidence and improve technique.

  • Gear Familiarity: Use the gear you plan to take on the climb during training to ensure comfort and efficiency.

For detailed guidance and support tailored to your experience and fitness level, get in touch with us. We will provide the right information and advice to help you prepare effectively for this remarkable climb.

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 More About The Climb

The ‘North Face Standard Route’ was first ascended in 1944 by A. Firmin and P. H. Hicks. With a grade of IV, and 15+ hours of climbing from hut to hut, the North Face of Mount Kenya is a serious undertaking, and in Hicks’ own words “…a first class climb of a higher standard both in length and difficulty than the standard S.E. route.” An overnight bivvy can be incorporated to break up the climb.

This is a climb for experienced rock climbers and alpinists. Normally the summit day is well over 12 hours long. While most of the climbing is on mid-5th class rock, there is one 5.9 pitch and several at a 5.8 standard (US grading system). Add to this the challenge of technical rock at 17,000 feet above sea level, and the alpine nature of the climb, and it amounts to a very demanding route. Climbers considering the ascent need to be solid 5.9 followers with experience on long technical routes of at least 10 pitches in length. We usually climb the lower section of the route in approach shoes or lightweight mountaineering boots. Rock shoes are useful for the more difficult upper pitches.

This route is best climbed from the base camp of Kami Hut camp, a former Mountain Club of Kenya hut site.

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